After spending the past eight years as an executive chef In five-star hotels across China, Geoffrey Weckx has decided to step out on his own, opening a small restaurant, simply named W.

A Belgian citizen who cut his culinary teeth working as a cook’s apprentice in 1, 2, and 3 Michelin starred restaurants in Europe, Weckx worked in Malaysia and Jordan before coming to China. Famed for his meticulous approach to aesthetics, the veteran of the Great Wall and Hainan Sheratons and Sofitels in Xiamen and Xian is now serving creative European cuisine, with a French twist.

The interior has a sleek look with subdued lighting and candles on each table, whilst the bar is lit blue from behind, adding a cool aura to the restaurant. There is a private dining room which seats up to ten people and overlooks the bar.

FAs for the food, the freshly baked whole wheat, multi grain and dark rolls are served with three excellent Mediterranean-inspired dips. Both the tomato and garlic and the black olives with virgin olive oil are wonderful, but the eggplant puree is exceptionally unique thanks to a faint taste of tahini, which marries beautifully with the aubergine.

The pumpkin soup (28RMB) has just enough cream to ensure that it is satisfyingly thick without being too rich. It is also subtly spiced with light curry flavor that pleasant tingles the tastebuds.

A cold appetizer (45RMB) consisting of artichokes, avocado and crabmeat complimented with dill is deliciously original, as well as being light and healthy.

The main course of Citrus Ossobucco (88RMB), veal shank containing marrowbone stewed in wine with celery, carrots and tomatoes, and a hint of lime--served on a bed of creamy mashed potatoes. This chef’s specialty is most enjoyable if paired with a glass of Chilean house wine (30RMB/glass).

The grilled yellow fin tuna and sweet potatoes (120RMB) is also cooked to perfection, the outside of the tuna seared to a crisp, while the inside remains nice and moist. The accompanying golden brown slices of sweet potato have an enticingly crunchy texture.sausages to an old recipe, as well as traipsing round bakeries in search of the perfect baguette to go with the beef brisket sandwich.

Of the desserts, the chocolate tartlet (48RMB) is smooth, creamy and has thin sliver of mint leaves and tiny bits of strawberries scattered around the tarlet—details that elevate Weckx’s creations above those of other chefs while simultaneously highlighting the joy of chocolate. Delicious.

W dine & wine, 22-1 Dongzhimenwai Dajie, opposite the Canadian Embassy, Dongcheg district (tel 6416 5499) Open 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm. Meal for two 400RMB.

东城区，东直门外大街22－1 号，加拿大使馆对面。